Tough Calls
One of the things I’m stumbling across since starting a plus-size fashion blog is the proportion of design to self esteem. My first issue in writing about fashion is that plus designers didn’t always respect their target market – Lane Bryant in fact had been notorious for that attitude, as reflected on one blog I saw where a manager sent a letter to the blogger saying basically “it’s us or weight watchers.” That paired with visits to Lane Bryant stores over the course of that year that left me insulted and furious at the very sight of the clothing offerings is a major part of what inspired this blog, especially since their most wearable-in-real-life clothing is relegated to their clearance outlets. Two years later, Lane Bryant is still looking at how to get the most money out of their target market rather than how to best serve their target market, despite the latter being in the long run consistently more profitable. At least, with the Fit-Rite jeans, there were real strides forward in the service side of business – I can only hope that they’ve found a way to do something about the weird smell. Seriously, is the chemical that produces that truly necessary?
Nowadays, I’m finding the designers I’m seeking – people who are plus themselves, and know that being heavy or larger framed is infinitely more complex and personal than what certain media folks would have you believe. They know our bodies are more complex. Not every plus size woman is large-busted. Not every woman over size 14 has a gut. Not every size 20 is unathletic. It’s just not that simple. And these designers know it’s not that simple.
So, while there is a sector of the market place that is still all mumus or hoochie wear, there is another sector that I would classify as “seems like a good idea at the time.” Leggings, which do not belong on women with large bellies, are one example of this. They’re showing them on flattened size 0s, they’re heralded as “in style” and admittedly they are comfortable – but the end result on someone with a build like mine? I’d be better off wearing a barrel and suspenders. Here’s the thing: there are plus sizes with flat stomachs. On those people, they probably work – assuming that the wearer is not letting the number attached to their size falsely inform them about the shape of their own body. It all comes down to self-esteem.
There are some clothing choices made purely out of low self-esteem. That is why there is still a market for mumus. There is also clothing that gets designed out of low self-esteem. Designers are artists, and the clothing they create can often be an extension of themselves. A plus designer designing for plus often starts with the question “How would I feel?” The end result is frequently something shapeless and baggy. Someone more advanced in the psychological process can ask the valid question, “How do I want others to feel about me or my clothing?” This is a safe place to work from when designing office wear, especially when you’re trying to fly under the radar – getting noticed as a fat person can be a dangerous business. It can take years to get to the point where the designer learns to ask “How do I want to feel?” The end product is always entirely different, and while not always successful, does challenge people in the way they think about themselves – making true art as plus-sized clothing.
These are questions to ask when shopping and when creating – it’s hard to work with what’s true to you when your feelings and the people around you are telling you lies about who you are and how you feel about yourself.
Lane Bryant may have made some strides with their Right Fit jeans, but after having bought 2 pair, I can’t say I really like them any better than any of the other choices out there. I liked them a lot when I first bought them, but now, not so much. Mainly because they fit great when I first put them on, but after wearing them for an hour, they are sliding off my ass because they’ve stretched out about 3 inches. NONE of my other stretch denims do this, just the Right Fits. I have a 32″ inseam, and I bought the average length, which is advertised as having a 30″ inseam (WRONG!). It’s actually about 34″ and I had to cut them off and hem them to get the correct length (petites were too short). Now, cutting off and hemming on a straight leg pant isn’t a big deal, but when you get a boot-cut jean, the flare is supposed to start just below your knee. When the pants legs are too long, the flare starts lower than that, and hemming cuts off a lot of that flare and makes the pants look weird. I won’t be buying any more Right Fits, since I had to do extensive alterations to get them to fit (when I pay $40 for a pair of jeans, I don’t expect to have to alter them for correct fit). I do like LB for their denim boot-cut leggings and tee shirts (I’m not into dresses at all), and they do have some cute tops that fit larger sizes quite well and look good too. My main gripe with them is that they use thin models to show clothes for larger women. Good thing I know what looks good on me and what doesn’t, because if I had to rely on their models, I’d be SOL. But they don’t care, because if you want affordable clothes, you don’t have a whole hell of a lot of choices (I can’t afford $40 or more for 1 top, and I can’t afford $60 or more for 1 pair of slacks/jeans).
That’s why I do a lot of sewing for myself. I get what I want, in the color/print/fabric/pattern I want, and I know it will fit the way it should.
I’m glad to hear it’s not just me that feels that way about LB. I hate to completely give up on them and thereby reduce the already small number of plus-size clothing stores I can shop at here in town, but it’s been quite some time since I found clothing I like at their regular stores.
Service at the store here isn’t up to snuff, either.
Something about their whole approach just . . misses, somehow.
(Found two pairs of pants that I LOVE at the LB Outlet, though. Go figure!)
You’ve made a lot of valid and very important points. Would you might if I posted some of it (as well as credit and link, of course) on my blog?
Good point about clothing not being made for those whith high self esteem. Also, like you said, there definately needs to be more clothing designed for plus sized women of different shapes. We come in many beautiful shapes and sizes!
Okay, so I understand the rant about LB. I have worked for them for 3 years and we as employees have the same problem. LB has our target woman set as being between 35-45. I am 24 and I do not wear everything that is int he store. I lot of stuff looks too old. BUT I can say that in the last couple of years LB has made some improvements to the style. It is very hit or miss. We want bigger models too. So, everyone is in the same boat.
As for the clothing not being made for someone with low self-esteem..It is time for us as plus women to stop blaming the clothes. You dont have to reach for the long-sleeved shirt. It is more how you see yourself. When your esteem is high the clothes reflect it….
Context, PlusSizeDiva, context.